A season defined by the details, FW12 menswear was a great start to the year. Out of the mass of imagery presented from world class designers, 9 times a day for 9 days straight, we’ve selected the collections that stuck in our heads the longest.
“Animated, that’s one way of describing the latest from Louis Vuitton. Animated as in literally having exaggerated qualities, in an awesomely tailored kind of way. The scarves were jumbo-big; the coats had clean, geometric prints; and every look had some serious texture.”
“Raf Simons must have swallowed the red pill based on the procession of Agent Smith clones at Jil Sander this season. Supple leather outerwear draped over precision-cut tailored pieces, all blacked-out save for the contrasting pop of white shirts (and a pair of animal-embroidered jumpers). Consider this Neo-minimalism.”
“Junya Watanabe picks up where his Spring 2012 outing left off, a farmer’s market. This season, however, Watanabe visits the contemporary co-op and creates a collection of polished parkas and barn jackets in tweed and denim, paired with overalls and leather patchwork pants, all in clean, unwashed finishes.”
“Versace’s latest was packed with look-at-me-now psychedelic patterns, blood red suits, and shearling-sleeved denim jackets. Oh yeah, there was a sunflower-print jump suit, too. What we mean to say is that this catwalk wasn’t for the faint of heart. Somewhere in the sea of the theatrics, totally wearable pieces lurked—badass leather jackets, sharp khaki suits, and slim gray jeans that the every-dude could pull off with ease…relative to that jump suit, at least.”
Dries Van Noten
“Groovy man, or sir, really, would be the appropriate response to Dries Van Noten’s psychedelically charged runway this season. Colorful prints, looking like the portfolio of an LSD-induced tapestry weaver, were used in everything from peacoats to pants, but didn’t overwhelm a collection that was very much grounded in reality. Sublimely tailored topcoats and a series of dark suiting looks maintained the gentlemanly, refined aesthetic so associated with the brand.”